Nuremburg

Since none of us had ever been to Nuremberg and we didn't have an address of where to even meet we just set our GPS to Nuremburg and decided to meet downtown. Since my parents didn't have a cell phone and our GPS's took us in completely the opposite directions I was pretty unsure if we'd every find each other and that we'd just have to meet back home. Once we got there and Todd was pretty sure we were on the wrong end of things (which we were) I was even more sure that we'd never find them. Since Hailee needed to go to the bathroom we decided we better walk around to find one then head home to meet back up with my parents. As we were finding a bathroom and I realized how big the downtown area really was and how many people were out and about, then I was even more surprised to have my mom find us. What are the chances? It's a bet I totally would have lost. We quickly found a bathroom and headed out to see a castle and find some Nurember sausages.

 We got to the castle at closing time but we got to walk around a little bit.

 Then to finish off the crazy day we found some Nuremberg sausages. They have their own type of sausages in Nuremberg and they were quite tasty.

Rothenburg ob der tauber

The Mortensens came to Germany...and I'm pretty sure it won't be the same again. For those of you who don't know about Mortensen family vacations I think Todd said it best when on the last day of their trip they were content to stay home he said, "It looks like a successful Mortensen vacation, everyone is too tired and happy to stay home." It was true. I'm pretty sure they saw more of Germany in 9 days then I will see in two months.

Saturday morning they flew in to Germany and I thought for sure they would want to at least want to stop by my house for a minute, but even with lost luggage and long overseas flights they were ready to go. Off we went to Rothenburg ob de Tauber, a place tourists love and Germans have no idea where it is. Todd's colleagues had no idea why every tourist goes there. We've long since discovered that Germans don't think old buildings are cool since they are every where here. Rothenburg is a great little town still surrounded by the old castle walls. The shopping was pretty fun too.

They have one of the most famous Christmas stores in Germany. My mom was so excited to go. We did get in trouble for taking pictures, but we at least got a few inside.

We also got to eat and a fun cafe outside.

I'm still just surprised everyone was still going and happy. Kristen, Hailee, Emily and Todd by a cool old door.  Below is my mom, Hailee, Kristen and my dad climbing on top of the city walls. After we were done in Rothenburg I thought they would be ready for bed, but again we were off again. Since Nuremburg was on the way home we just had to stop there for a quick visit.

Don't Question the GPS

GPS: In 200 meters board ferry....
Todd: Did that just tell us to board a ferry?
Nicole: Ummmm, I think so.
Hailee: I don't see a "fairy" Where is the fairy? Is the GPS crazy...?

On our first real trip here in Germany, our Garmin GPS took us through several farming villages to Neuschwanstein.  The drive took quite a bit longer than it would have on major roads but was just the experience we were hoping for.  It was then we decided that since adventure is what we're out for, we'd just trust the GPS no matter how odd the instructions.

So when the GPS told us to board a ferry on our way home rather than heading back to Heidelberg we decided "why not?"

Here we are on the ferry crossing the Neckar river just below Hirschhorn Castle.

Swans on the Neckar river.

Once again the GPS took us on back roads for several kilometers.

Who needs the autobahn when you've got this?

Castle

Just down the hill from Brombach we explored the ruins of Hirschhorn Castle.  The castle would have had some prominence in the lives of our Layer family.  The first Layer we have on record in 1640 also happened to be the only Layer recorded anywhere in the area.  Our Layer relatives here believe he may have been the only Layer to survive the Thirty Years War.  I wonder if he sheltered in this castle?

The Knights who controlled the Hirschhorn (Deer Horn) Castle were on the Protestant side of the Thirty Years War and directly opposed the Holy Roman Emperor.  The same was true of Heidelberg.  This region was one of the areas with the most intense fighting and 3/4ths of the inhabitants were killed in the conflict.

The castle overlooks the Neckar river.  This area was known as the Pearl of the Neckar.

Hailee and James loved their afternoon in Brombach.

Finding Our Roots

After getting locked in the parking garage for 30 minutes, we finally got on the road. Following directions from our random store keeper we went east along the north side of the Neckar River. It took all of five minutes to decide that the drive alone was worth it. We traded the crowed tourism of Heidelberg for a string of quaint little towns that grew more peaceful as we went. In a matter of 10 minutes we seemed to have the valley to ourselves. 

About 20 minutes into the drive we saw Hirshhorn Castle perched on a hilltop. It was here that we found the turn to Brombach. It is the type of road that you don't notice unless you're looking for it. Barely wide enough for two cars, it wandered straight into a thick forest. That's when I got the feeling we'd found it.

 

 World War II casualties of Brombach.

Our first discovery was the Brombach church and it's plaque of soldiers who perished in WWI and WWII.  The Layer family had five casualties in WWI but only two casualties in WWII.  After discovering that the church was locked and empty we set off to find someone who could help us.

As luck would have it, we immediately ran into a mom who explained that nearly everyone in Brombach was either a Layer or descended from one.  She directed us to a Mr. Layer who managed the church and lived at the top of an overlooking hill.  After thanking her, we left for the house in hopes of more information.

Our luck continued as we were met at the home by a grandmother who spoke a little English and her son who spoke very well. They provided directions to the local cemetery and then invited us back for coffee after we'd had a look around.

The cemetery only dated to the late 1800's.  We learned later that it had been relocated from the church yard and that old headstones are removed after 40 years to allow new ones.

After some time at the cemetery, we went in search of a better view of the valley.  We discovered this vantage point from which we could see most of the village.

After some time enjoying the spring weather we headed back down for refreshments with the Layer family.  We were pleased to meet their grandfather who had been keeping family history as a hobby for several years.  After some time getting to know each other he brought out his genealogy of the town which we compared with our records.

To our delight we found we were related on both his grandfather and grandmothers side.  He corrected a few minor errors in our genealogy and was able to provide two new names which now take our family back to Switzerland.  Who knew?

It was about then that we learned that we've also been pronouncing our name wrong.  We're not Layers it turns out, we're Liars (as pronounced in German.)  My poor wife.  Now she's married to a cheating pig (Cunningham Ham) and a liar (Layer).

Before leaving we took a picture with our Layer cousins.  We'll be looking to keep in touch with them.

It's hard to describe what is feels like to discover your roots.  There are few days in my life that I can compare with it.  There was something magical about discovering this little village of 400 people. It was new and different and yet so familiar and warm.  It felt like home.

Heidelberg - day two

Once James was dressed he got in his stroller and buckled himself in and informed us he was ready to go. He was so excited to head outside again.

 We didn't need to be out of our hotel until 11:00 am so we decided that we would take a walk down by the river. We were too tired to do it the day before. I am so glad we waited. Everyone must have been up late because we almost had the pathway to ourselves, it was lovely. The weather was absolutely perfect, it was nice and quiet and we heard birds chirping the whole way.

Wouldn't it be nice to have one of those homes right on the river with a view of the castle? Heidelberg really lived up to everything I had heard about it. It was beautiful...a little overrun with tourists, but beautiful just the same.